• in this case, the strands have been twisted in (let’s call it) a clockwise direction
• If the wire had a counter clockwise twist - then the helix should be wound in a Clockwise direction to achieve the 90 degree angle.

• If the wire used has the strands twisted in the opposite direction, then the Helix should be wound in the opposite direction to that indicated in the above image

In the images above, I have used the same wire for both live/signal and neutral conductors and as such the twist of the individual strands in both wires is the same. But what if the strands in just ONE wire is twisted in the opposite direction, which direction should the helix be wound in ???

That decision I will leave to the individual.

Personally - I think this level of “detail” is beyond the resolution capabilities of my system, but I felt it should at least be mentioned for those out there that may wish to investigate

1. The cables sound more open when the expandable nylon sleeve i.e. to give the cable a “professional appearance”, is NOT used
2. The power cables sounded better without spades

1. • Personally, on my system I found the spades provided faster dynamics and bass delivery

1. avoid using heat shrink tubing where it draws the signal and neutral wires closer together
2. To better isolate the signal (or live) wire use teflon tube - not the expandable sleeve as identified in the web site

• DO NOT simply pull the Helix coil straight - this will over-twist the strands inside the wire
• Remove the Helix coil from the cable i.e. slide the coil off of the live/signal conductor intact
• Then slide the helix coil onto a suitably sized steel/fibreglass rod - NOTE: you will probably need to compress the coil
• Finally, pull on one end of the coil, allowing the coil to spin around on the rod
• this technique prevents the twisted strands inside the wire from becoming deformed
• You can then rewind the helix in the correct direction without any issues
• The important thing is that you “UNWIND” the helix coil
• Otherwise: it may deform the strands inside the wire, which will impact performance
• NOTE: - power cables are not as sensitive as Speaker cables and interconnects and changing the direction of the Helix does not offer any real discernible improvements in sound quality, so changing their helix direction is not necessary

They’re finally here !!!

Regular visitors to this web site are probably familiar with the Helix Mark V IC and the POWER Helix power cables and now I’ve finally had a chance to develop the Helix Speaker cable.

I’d been procrastinating about making a Helix geometry speaker cable for some time, mainly because I needed a 10 foot pair of cables.

• Winding a helix neutral of the correct gauge for a 10 foot cable was, for me, a little daunting, but it turned out to be easier than I expected.

So what makes Helix cables work?

It get’s pretty complicated ...

For more information on cable design issues please read the three articles below that talk about the many problems that challenge cables builders.

They will provide a great deal of insight into the many parameters and design techniques employed to build cables that excellent in their performance.


https://www.psaudio.com/article/cables-time-is-of-the-essence-part-1/

https://www.psaudio.com/article/cables-time-is-of-the-essence-part-2/

https://www.psaudio.com/article/cables-time-is-of-the-essence-part-3/

So, how do Helix cables prevent that from happening?

In the Helix design, the neutral conductor is wound around the signal conductor, so the neutral is NEVER parallel to the signal wire.

This minimizes -

• induced noise
• Proximity Effect
• Skin Effect
• Rise Time and Decay Distortions
• Minimize Dielectric influences by using only single conductors for the signal and neutral wires

VOILA! - most “cable related problems” are eliminated !!!
(pretty much)

The Helix Geometry is one of the most noise-free cable geometries available.

It should be applied to ALL cables in a system, resulting in a level of fidelity you probably thought could only be attained by having components costing considerably more.

What will you hear? - for me the most noticeable improvement were the venue acoustics, i.e. the echoes and reverberations that surround each artist and instrument.

At first, it can sound as though you have an echo problem in the room, but I have several tracks where there are no reverberations, so playing those confirmed my room acoustics were perfectly fine.

Other attributes that are clearly audible include clarity, neutrality, dynamic performance, bass depth and control.

But one effect that took a while for me to realize just how much it effects the sound is phasing.

Phasing controls the placement of instruments and artists in three ways.

1. Their location within the width and depth of the image
2. Their location outside of the speakers
3. The appearance of the “projection” of sound around (even behind) the listener e.g. like surround sound

We all know if you connect the speakers out of phase the image becomes muddled and the bass performance drops off.

But varying the phase by small amounts can move the position of instruments and artists within the image. The noise impacts the phase of the signals of both channels differently, resulting in an inaccurate image.

Since the Helix Geometry eliminates most all of the noise created inside the actual cable - you will notice an incredibly precise placement of instrument and artist within the image AND an incredibly large image that melts the boundaries of the listening room and envelops the listener.

Now the speakers are truly “invisible”

PLEASE NOTE: Your system will probably not achieve its full potential by installing just one set of helix cables...

They ALL have to have the helix geometry !!!

How To Make Them...

To determine the “Direction” of the Helix - see Inside The Helix Geometry.

Here are the parts...

• Neutral Conductor: 10 gauge silver plated Mil-Spec wire for the neutral from TAKE FIVE AUDIO (TFA)
• Signal conductor: For the budget conscious - a 16 gauge, or 14 gauge or 12 gauge silver plated Mil Spec wire from TFA
• - personally i have not found any difference between these three different gauges, but some people prefer a heavier gauge,
• But - if no expense is to be spared See Note A: The Signal Conductor below
• 3/8” Black heat-shrink (from TFA)
• 3/16” Red heat-shrink (from TFA)
• One five foot fibreglass rod from home depot
• One set of KLEI™Classic Harmony Banana plugs
• 3/8” Black CPA 100 Adhesive Lined Heatshrink (from TFA)

• Allow extra for the outer layer because when it expands it actually shortens
• I allowed an additional 6” for the outer sleeve

• 20 ft of signal conductor i.e. 10 x 2
• 37 ft of expandable sleeve,
• 50 ft of neutral conductor.

• I have listed the Mil-Spec wire as the signal conductor, but this is more for proof of concept or for the more budget conscious readers - but I have found 12 gauge Duelund copper stranded with Polycast insulation provides more details and better image.
• I did consider the Duelund 12 gauge wire with oil/cotton insulation, but I have concerns about the oil possibly drying out, or the effect that humidity might have on it’s capacitance.

Once the other end of the conductor is reached - leave 6”-8” of straight conductor

• Slide the signal conductor into the coil
• Stretch the coil to the length of the signal conductor

• Place a piece of the red 3/16” heat shrink over the signal conductor
• Use a piece of the 3/8” adhesive lined Heatshrink to hold the coil to the signal conductor

• they will sound very good at first
• after around 12 hours their performance will degrade - bass will fall off and some distortion will occur
• after 30 hours they really start to shine
• by 100 hours they are exceptional and will continue to get better

But REMEMBER: any system will not achieve its full potential by installing just one set of helix cables...

For optimum perofrmance - ALL cables must have the helix geometry !!!

These cables are truly exceptional, from a fidelity perspective and from a cost perspective they are excellent VALUE!.

For Helix cable spec’s please see Its More Than Just Numbers - Isn't It?

I give them my “Best Bang For The Buck” award.

My Review System:

• Custom built turntable with a Soundsmith Denon DL103 phono cartridge mounted on an Audiomods Arm with one piece silver litz harness + KLEI Absolute®Harmony RCA’s

• Simaudio MOON LP5.3 RS phono stage

• Bluesound Node 2 music server

• NAIM 5i integrated amp (with passive pre-section).

• Gershman Acoustics Sonogram speakers.

• DIY Speaker Cables - The HELIX Speaker

• DIY Power Cables - The "POWER HELIX"

• DIY Interconnect Cables - The "Helix Mark V"

Give them a try - and - Enjoy The Music!


ADDENDUM:

The development of these cables was something of a collaborative effort. it all started when I responded to a post on the Audiogon Cable Forum by Audiogon member Toddverrone (Todd)

Todd was already familiar with the Helix design since had had already made a couple of my Helix power cables.

We discussed possible approaches, but since I had not actually made a set of Speaker Cables I figured I’d better “Walk the Walk”

And so, the Helix Speaker cables (of the above design) were “born”.

However, since Todd’s speakers were configured for a bi-wire/bi-amp approach he wondered if there was a viable Helix Bi-wire solution in a single cable.

Taking the design above, I modified it in the following manner to incorporate two sets of conductors (LF and HF) into a single cable as follows:

• the two positive conductors would be wound around the fibreglass rod and then straightened out by hand, but leaving the kinks in the conductors in place.
• Each conductor is wound in opposite directions in order to stop them from being able to touch continuously to prevent EMI contamination.
• the two signal conductors would be placed inside two (LF and HF) helix neutral windings, but each neutral would also be wound in opposite directions - again to minimize EMI contamination.
• The net result is what Todd referred to as - one “bad-ass” design
• Perhaps I should name it the - Bad-Ass Helix Bi-Wire ?

• This level if fidelity could then be used as a benchmark for comparison to the Bi-wired version.

• One LF 12 awg conductor and One HF 14 awg conductor with a “kinky helix” wind in opposite directions,
• both are silver plated copper in ptfe from take five audio.

• Dual LF 12 awg silver plated copper conductors in ptfe for the inner helix
• Dual HF 14 awg silver plated copper conductors in ptfe for the outer helix
• The 14 gauge was the outer Helix because it is easier to wind

• So far, they are superb!
• The same black background as the single helix with cat 5, but more clarity from top to bottom.
• There's not more bass, it's just a bit tighter and cleaner.
• The mids and highs have greater clarity and come further out from the background, with better separation of sounds.

So there you have it! - Seems like Todd is pretty happy with his creation.

Whether single wire or bi-wire these cables provide extremely good fidelity, dynamics and bass performance. But please remember to allow them to burn-in for around 200 hours before serious listening.

A special thanks to Todd for taking on this difficult task - winding those helix neutrals can be quite tiring on the hands

I give them my

Give them a try - and - Enjoy The Music!

Tags: Speaker

I subsequently found articles on the web which verified that in this particular situation it is common for one of the conductors in standard household power cable to register an "induced voltage".

In the case of “conventional” power cable architectures, the live conductor and the neutral conductor tend to be side by side in extremely close proximity for the length of the cable, so is it reasonable to assume that noise will be induced between the conductors in a power cable?.
Would “noise pollution” also be present on the ground conductor, which, and depending on the design of a components circuit, might also have an adverse effect on sound quality?

Additional research revealed even more to consider regarding good cable design...

For more information on cable design issues please read the three articles below that talk about the many problems that challenge cables designers.

They will provide a great deal of insight into the many parameters and design techniques employed to build cables that excellent in their performance.

The articles are specific to Interconnect and speaker cables, but much of the theory also applies to power cables


https://www.psaudio.com/article/cables-time-is-of-the-essence-part-1/

https://www.psaudio.com/article/cables-time-is-of-the-essence-part-2/

https://www.psaudio.com/article/cables-time-is-of-the-essence-part-3/

The premise of the helical design concept eliminates the parallel conductors which minimizes cable issues to imperceivable levels!

But First My Disclaimer:

DO NOT attempt any of the assemblies detailed below unless you are an experienced Electrical Professional OR Electronics Hobbyist - otherwise consult a technician!

YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE: for following local electrical codes. Failure to do so may result in personal injury, damage to equipment, or power cable failure which can result in fire.

YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE: for ensuring the cable selected is suitably rated for the power requirements of the component(s) it will be attached too !

YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE: for ensuring the IEC/Mains connectors are installed observing the correct polarity !
- failure to do so can result in poor operation, component failure or electric shock.

YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE: for ensuring the dielectric strength of the insulation on ALL conductors used, meets or exceeds local codes!

e.g. In North America - 600v at 200 Celsius for 120v 50/60 Hz supply

These Power cables are only to be used for Home Audio Purposes and must not subjected to harsh environments and frequent handling, which generally require additional protective coverings.

The materials mentioned below comply with most codes for NORTH AMERICA ONLY!

Electrical codes in other countries may require the selection of different materials, therefore YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE for following those local electrical codes.

YOU are responsible for ensuring “power related” assemblies are safe to use!

Materials...

The materials listed below will build a 5ft power cable that is suitable for use with Power Aimplifiers rated up to 600 watts.

• LIVE Conductor: Duelund stranded 12 gauge wire with Polycast insulation

• • However, if you want a more budget oriented power cable you can use 12 gauge Mil-spec wire from Take Five audio

• NEUTRAL Conductor: 30 feet of stranded Mil Spec 12 AWG Silver Plated Copper Wire, Cryo Treated, Red - available from Take Five Audio (TFA)
• GROUND Conductor: 15 feet of green 12 gauge mains copper wire from Home Depot
• 2 feet of 1” black Heat Shrink sleeve
• 1 Pair of SONAR QUEST CRYO Ag Audio Grade Silver plated IEC plug + US main plug
• lead free solder suited for electronics use - or WBT 4% silver solder can also be used
• 10-12 gauge copper spade/fork connectors
• For Spade/Fork terminals take look at the Grainger Web site and in their options check box select TERMINAL TYPE: Standard, WIRE RANGE: 12-10 gauge, INSULATION TYPE: Bare and SEAM: Butted
• Fork Terminals - Spade Terminals - Grainger Industrial Supply
• 1 5ft x 1/4” fibreglass rod - available from Home Depot

The Sonar Quest connectors have heavy Silver plating on pure copper contacts that provide excellent clamping and transmission of electrical current - available from ebay

I use an approximate ratio of 3:1 of Ground/Neutral:Live conductor

e.g. for a 5ft power cable I use 15ft of Ground and 30ft of Neutral Conductor

How To Make Them...

To determine the “Direction” of the Helix - see Inside The Helix Geometry.


The Neutral Conductor...

The Neutral Conductor is made from two lengths of the Mil Spec 12 AWG Silver Plated Copper Wire listed above.

Why two pieces? - this effectively make the neutral wire a 9 awg conductor, which I have found performs much better, resulting in faster dynamics, better bass performance and control and more natural imaging.

Cut the 30 ft length of wire into two equal length pieces.

On the 1/4” rod, wind the neutral conductor in a helix configuration, space the windings about 1/4” apart and remove from the rod.
Repeat the winding process with the second piece of wire.

With the second coil of wire still on the rod...
- Attach the first coil to the second coil with a 10 gauge spade connector
- Wind the first “coil” of wire between its windings as shown below

Remove the two “intertwined” coils from the rod

The Ground Conductor...

On the 1/4” rod, wind the green GOUND conductor in a helix configuration, space the windings about 1/4” apart and remove from the rod.

Attach a 10 awg spade connector on one end of the Live conductor, crimp and solder in place.

Thread the Live conductor through the centre of the red coil(s)

Attach a second 10 awg spade connector on free end of the Live conductor, crimp and solder in place.

Attach a second 10 awg spade connector on the two free ends of the neutral conductor, crimp and solder in place.

Wind the green wire between the “double winding” of the neutral conductor as shown below.

Place 12 awg spade connectors on both ends of the ground conductor, crimp and solder in place

Place the expandable nylon sleeve over the cable assembly and cut to length
- NOTE: I no longer use the Nylon sleeve because I like the look of the green/red conductors

Cut two adequate lengths of 1” heat shrink tubing and place over the nylon sleeve

Attach the Sonar Quest connectors to the cable assembly ensuring you adopt the correct polarity!!!

Position the heat shrink over the ends of the outer sleeve and apply heat

Secure the connector covers in place to complete the cable assembly

Assembly Notes...


Why do I use spade connectors? -

• First, trying to attach the mains/IEC connectors to a 10 gauge cable is very difficult,
• More importantly - the spade connectors prevent detachment from the connectors in the event of unforeseen stress being placed on the connectors.
• I have also found that the spade connectors actually improve sound quality.

I use pliers as shown in this image that applies an extended crimp along the whole length of the spade connectors collar

Cables that are more suited to source components can use lighter gauge conductors, but be sure to determine their power requirements and select a gauge that can handle it with headroom to spare.

Can you use other brands of IEC/Mains connectors?

Of course. Some people might prefer to use Furutech, or Oyaide high quality connectors.

Others may prefer to use something more reasonably price, like the Vanguard range of connectors.

I believe the Sonar Quest connector line provides exceptional sound quality for a reasonable price.

The Journey...

I’m a frugal person with a distinct dislike of overpaying for something as simple as a piece of wire!

I started making my own cables many years ago from Bulk cable with reasonably priced connectors.

I first tried Furutech bulk cable and then stumbled upon DH Labs, which I believe offers similar performance for about 1/3 the price - how could you not like that.

I then investigated a braided architecture which proved very effective, even using plain old Romex house wire.

Finally, I tried the Helix Architecture, which has proved to be the best performing power cable architecture to date.

I have now implemented this architecture on all my cables that have anything to do with audio.

What do they sound like?

The “POWER HELIX” is a high performance power cable that allows connected components to perform to the best of their abilities.

They assist components in delivering ultra fast dynamic performance, exceptional clarity, expansive imaging and a very deep and exceptionally well controlled bass performance with improved imaging.

How Long is the Burn-In Period?

It is imperative that these cables are allowed adequate time to settle and burn-in...

• they will sound extremely good on initial installation
• after about 60 hours they allow more of the micro details in the form of venue specific reverberation captured in live recordings, or applied by very talented sound engineers, to clearly be heard.

• the cost of better materials is making them significantly more expensive
• I believe any improvements using better materials will probably be marginal from this point onwards

My Review System:

• Custom built turntable with a Soundsmith Denon DL103 phono cartridge mounted on an Audiomods Arm with one piece silver litz harness + KLEI Absolute®Harmony RCA’s

• Simaudio MOON LP5.3 RS phono stage

• Bluesound Node 2 music server

• NAIM 5i integrated amp (with passive pre-section).

• Gershman Acoustics Sonogram speakers.

• KLE Innovations gZero6 Speaker Cables

• DIY Power Cables - The "POWER HELIX"

• DIY Interconnect Cables - The "Helix Mark V"

Give them a try - and - Enjoy The Music!

Tags: Power Cable

Now includes a Balanced design...

The “Helix Mark VIII” represents the very latest developments in researching different wire types and materials. The only difference is that the Mark VII uses Duelund wire for the signal conductor and the Mark VIII uses Mundorf Solid Silver/gold (see below for details)

The premise behind its helical geometry (or architecture) is eliminating parallel conductors, since...

• if two parallel conductors are in close proximity for an extended distance, and current is passed down them, then noise & distortions will occur within them them.

Why would this matter? Isn’t the neutral is effectively connected to the “ground” ?

Well, the neutral conductor is actually connected to the neutral side of the circuit of both attached components.

Any noise permeates through the neutral side of the components circuit, which has a negative impact on the amplified signal resulting in a distorted output.

Any noise in the signal conductor gets amplified and distorted even further

In addition, parallel conductors are prone to Proximity & Skin Effects which alters the resistance of the conductor. affecting the transfer the signal

All of this impacts the phase between the left and right channels, which “smears” the mage.

The helix design concept eliminates the parallel conductors and minimizes the noise, proximity effect and Skin effect to imperceivable levels, improving clarity and dynamic performance of the interconnect.

One other nice feature of the helical design is the neutral conductor, being wound around the signal conductor, becomes a very effective shield against external RFI sources - because it is connected to “ground”

But Shouldn’t The Two Conductors Be The Same Length?

If you look at the “roles” the two conductors play from the perspective of an attached components’ circuit diagram it becomes clear that cable length is immaterial and they can be made from different materials and gauges.

• The Signal Conductor transfers the signal
• The Neutral Conductor completes the circuit, however, it also connects the neutral sides of the two attached components
• Any “noise” present on the neutral conductor impacts the operation of BOTH components.

For more detailed information on cable design issues please read the three articles below that talk about the many problems that challenge cables builders.

They will provide a great deal of insight into the many parameters and design techniques employed to build cables that excellent in their performance.


https://www.psaudio.com/article/cables-time-is-of-the-essence-part-1/

https://www.psaudio.com/article/cables-time-is-of-the-essence-part-2/

https://www.psaudio.com/article/cables-time-is-of-the-essence-part-3/

How To Make Them...

To determine the “Direction” of the Helix - see Inside The Helix Geometry.

The Single Ended IC Design...
The parts list is reasonably priced between $180 - $250 CDN for a 3ft ( or 1 meter) pair, depending on the RCA’s selected - and all other parts can be purchased from many parts providers on the web.

Considering their exceptional sound quality I believe this price range to be excellent value.

You can upgrade or downgrade these parts if you wish, but the parts listed will provide exceptional sound quality.

I use an approximate ratio of 3:1 of Neutral:Signal conductor

e.g. for a 3ft Interconnect cable I use 9ft of Neutral Conductor

The quantities listed is for a single Interconnect cable i.e. one channel - so double them for a stereo pair

• RCA Plug: KLE Innovations Absolute Harmony RCA Plugs (SOURCE: KLE Innovations or local parts sources)
• Neutral Conductor: 9 ft of Mil Spec 16 AWG Silver Plated Copper Wire Green Cryo Treated (SOURCE: TAKE FIVE AUDIO - TFA)
• Signal Conductor: 3 ft of 20 gauge Duelund stranded Tinned Copper with Oil/Cotton insulation (Source: HiFi Collective). See NOTE A below
• Teflon Tube: 3 ft of PTFE 10 Tubing .106"ID .130"OD Approx. (SOURCE: TFA)
• WBT 4% silver solder

• I have listed the Duelund wire as the signal conductor, but I have found 20 gauge Mundorf Silver/gold solid wire without insulation provides even more details and a stunning image. However, the Mundorf wire is significantly more expensive than the Duelund wire.

I also use a little “rig” to hold the parts while I solder

I’ve found that it is easier if I first solder the signal wire to the RCA plug first, followed by the neutral wire

Install the housing of the RCA and tighten the screws

To finish off, you can add some expandable nylon sleeve - it does not impact the performance of the Interconnect.

Assembly Notes...

For the budget minded DIYer I have since found that 24 gauge silver plated Mil-Spec wire offers a fuller sound without sacrificing any details and reduced the cost of the cable significantly. I also use it for the neutral.

But for the best performance to date, I now recommend either Mundorf 20 gauge copper wire with oil/cotton insulation or bare Mundorf Solid Silver/Gold(1%) wire.

• Dueund is marginally more expensive than the Mil-Spec wire and is a great performer
• But the Mundorf wire provides the most details and the best imaging,
• They really open up the image and presents a fuller, more detailed image with superb dynamics.
• I only use these wires for for the signal conductor
• I tried the Duelund as the neutral and it did not sound any better than the Mil-spec wire
• I continue to use the Mil-spec wire for the neutral.

e.g. “convention” states that a SPDIF cable should use an RCA plug of identical impedance

Primarily to reduce/eliminate internal “reflections” of the digital signal back down the cable

However, the KLEI Harmony RCA’S can be used on most digital cables regardless of the cables rated impedance value.

I also believe their higher impedance is responsible for their stellar analogue performance.

Can this cable be used for SPDIF purposes?

Absolutely! - it is an extremely adept SPDIF cable!

And I have found that the following cost saving adjustments do not impact SPDIF performance at all...

• KLEI Silver Harmony RCA plugs can be used in place of the more expensive Absolute Harmony RCA plug
• The Silver plated Mi-Spec wire is used for the signal conductor

• The delicate nuances pertaining to the acoustic reverberations of instruments and voice within a live venue are faithfully reproduced in the most minute detail, with a precision placement of musicians and their instruments within their own “virtual space”.

The quantities listed is for a single Interconnect cable i.e. one channel - so double them for a stereo pair

• 2 pairs of Neutrik NC3FXX-HA Male/Female XLR Cryo Treated - with Silver Plated Pins ( SOURCE: TAKE FIVE AUDIO - TFA)
• Neutral Conductor: 9 ft of Mil Spec 16 AWG Silver Plated Copper Wire Green Cryo Treated (SOURCE: TAKE FIVE AUDIO - TFA)
• Signal Conductor: 6 ft oof 20 gauge Duelund stranded Tinned Copper with Oil/Cotton insulation (Source: HiFi Collective)
• Outer Teflon Tube: 6 ft of PTFE 10 Tubing .106"ID .130"OD Approx. (SOURCE: TFA)
• WBT 4% silver solder

• one for the positive signal
• one for the negative signal
• Insert the signal conductors in a piece of teflon tube
• gently twist the teflon tubes together - 0ne twist every 5-6 inches

Stretch the spiral a little and then wind the neutral around both the signal conductors



Add the plugs and VOILA!


Nylon Expansion sleeve can be applied to get the “professional look” if desired



Below is a photo of a completed pair - built by a fellow DIY Audiophile John Tupper - thanks John



A quote from John,,,

• “My system is now running four of your power cables, XLR interconnects and speaker cables. More burn-in likely required, but, with 72 hours of running they sound fantastic.”

I started making my own cables many years ago, but many of those utilized bulk cable from companies like Van den Hul and DH Labs.

I then investigated some of the more recent cable geometries such as tight twisted pairs, braiding and helix geometries.

My biggest issue with helix designs as a DIYer - how to maintain a uniform distance between the signal and neutral conductors - the teflon tubes alleviated this problem

My primary goal along the way was to keep the cost of materials to a minimum.

When I first tried the early CAT6 version of the Helix design it was quite clear that it was going to be a very adept performer.

This observation supported my belief that the Helix architecture (or geometry) was an extremely effective approach to achieving excellent cable performance.

The early versions utilizing CAT6 as the neutral conductor were very good - just not brilliant!

With the “Helix Mark VII” version, I decided to incorporate higher quality silver plated materials in the neutral conductor in the hope that I could come even closer to the performance levels of some of todays popular high performance cables for a fraction of the cost.

The improvements were so good I concluded that a larger gauge neutral conductor provides significant improvements and the Duelund signal conductors were the icing on the cake - and Voila...

the “Helix Mark VII” was born!

The result:

a cable that actually competes with some of the very best cables in the audio world!

C’mon, Really?

• OK, I’ll let you be the final judge, but after listening to many cables I believe this to be the case

• they will however sound extremely good on initial installation
• they may exhibit some loss in volume and image focus after 3-4 days continuous use, but will return to normal by day 6-7
• they will sound exceptional after around 200 hours, but they will get even better after 300 hours
• I have also found ongoing improvements occur up to approximately 600+ hours in the earlier versions
• The use of cable cookers will expedite this process - start with 100 hours cooking + 100 hours playing

• the cost of better materials is making them significantly more expensive
• the improvements using better materials will probably be marginal from this point onwards

• Since the original posting back in 2015, I have exchanged email with several fellow Diyer’s that have contributed to the Helix design.
• Some people that have contributed to the evolution of the Mark VII design, including: Ernst (Austria), Yordan (Bulgaria), Ghislain (Canada), Todd (USA), John (USA)

My Review System:

• Custom built turntable with a Soundsmith Denon DL103 phono cartridge mounted on an Audiomods Arm with one piece silver litz harness + KLEI Absolute®Harmony RCA’s

• Simaudio MOON LP5.3 RS phono stage

• Bluesound Node 2 music server

• NAIM 5i integrated amp (with passive pre-section).

• Gershman Acoustics Sonogram speakers.

• KLE Innovations gZero6 Speaker Cables

• Assorted power cables

Give them a try - and - Enjoy The Music!

ADDENDUM:

Audiogon Member Toddverrone has also tried these IC’s ...





The Parts List :

• signal wire: OCC solid silver 24awg in cotton. 3' per cable

• • https://www.vhaudio.com/wire.html

• neutral: OCC solid copper 20awg magnet wire.  2 x 9' per cable

• • http://www.ebay.com/itm/112418636937?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

• connectors: KLE pure harmony solid silver

• • https://www.vhaudio.com/harmony-rca.html

• the white tube is a foamed teflon flexible tube that i ran the signal through. it's pretty amazing.  it doesn't kink at all.  it's called hyperflex tubing from vh audio

• • https://www.vhaudio.com/wire.html

Tags: Interconnects