I found an article on the web which verified that in this particular situation it is common for one of the conductors in standard household power cable to register an "induced voltage".

Turns out my digital multi-meter had such a high resistance that it drew no current so the reading was unusually high. However, my analogue meter, which draws a little more current still registered a reading of 13 volts.

That’s a lot of "noise".

So how does that relate to audio cables?

Most all cables used in audio have conductors that are in extremely close proximity and run parallel to each other, but one common perception of that cable is, one conductor is the positive and carries the signal and the other is the neutral and acts as the return path.

Added to that simplistic view, we also tend to think of the cable as a single entity as in the diagram below.

But if we view the cable from the perspective of the circuitry of the connected components we get an entirely different picture

Fact is, there is no “real relationship” between the two conductors:

• One conductor (red) carries the signal
• Whereas the other (black) simply maintains a link between the neutral side of the two connected components

The neutral therefore, is NOT the return path for the Signal as many folk believe, but in stark contrast to the signal conductor, should always carry the same potential value as the neutral (or ground side) of the two connected circuits...which is - ZERO VOLTS.

So, in a cable having a conventional architecture, i.e. two parallel conductors in very close proximity, it is not beyond the realm of possibilities that the signal conductor would induce some noise into the neutral conductor, which in turn pollutes the neutral sides of the circuits of both components.

This affects the operation of both components, resulting in a degraded audio signal !

Another reality is, the two conductors do not even have to be of the same length OR even made from the same material

• the signal conductor is best made from extremely high quality copper or silver
• but the neutral conductor can be of a lower grade of copper with little, if any, impact

• The “fine details” of their gZero Architecture is a closely guarded secret.
• What is known - their architecture incorporates multiple conductors of various materials, each having an “optimal gauge” for the required duty, which are fabricated by hand in a complex “noise cancelling geometry”.
• They also utilize very hi-tech proprietary materials for their connectors which also contributes to maximum signal transfer and noise reduction.
• This approach elevates not only their cables, but also your existing components, to a whole new level of performance!
  

“twisted pair construction minimizes radio frequency and electromagnetic interference for clear, noise-free sound”.

This may be the case, but it’s only the tip of this particular iceberg!

For more theory pertaining to this see Electromagnetic Interference - Considerations in Structured Cabling Systems from Siemens
Elimination of ALL noise not only improves the performance of the cable but also improves the performance of each connected component, allowing them to perform to their optimum abilities which results in...

• improved clarity,
• better imaging,
• faster dynamics,
• smoother high's,
• deeper lows with improved control,
• greater presence in the mid range and
• a natural, more realistic, even “holographic” performance.

The attached components run significantly cooler!


So if you are looking for audio cables of any type - take a close look at the architecture before you buy.

You’ll be a much happier camper

For information on my own DIY cable designs see the following posts on this blog...

DIY Power Cables - The "POWER HELIX"
DIY Interconnect Cables - The "Helix Mark V"
DIY Speaker Cables - The HELIX Speaker

Tags: Discussion

• the voltage within the circuit will fluctuate ever so slightly.
• the fluctuations can result in distortions being introduced into the amplified signal.
• also, remember there are two amplifiers operating in a stereo system, so the fluctuations will not be exactly the same.
• this can result is subtle changes to the phase of the two signals of the LR channels.
• changes in phase tend to alter the stereo image such that the image becomes "smeared" or "unfocused”.
• In exotic amp designs the power transformers tend to be very large, are made from great quality copper and have lots of "headroom" — that's why the sound better:
• "headroom" is the excess capacity available to address the peaks in power demand
• the transformers are also designed to be very efficient,
• Therefore peaks in current demand are accommodated by their ability to supply the required current from the power supply directly and when that is exhausted, from the main supply.
• If there is a tiny little power cord attached to the amp then the “effective supply, i.e. as seen by the power supply of the amp, is unable provide the required current in time.
• The amp will not perform up to it's “fullest potential" and
• The stereo image and dynamic response will not be as good as what is actually achievable.

• However, their internal circuitry and components are often very capable of a significantly higher level of performance if only the power supply were more “capable”

• Ensure that the outlet into which the equipment is plugged into is at least a hospital grade outlet — but you don't need to go nuts...
• I have a 20 amp hospital grade MRI outlet from Take Five Audio - it has much stronger clamping abilities.
• Even a 15 amp hospital grade outlet will be better than a standard outlet.
• Ensure that all mains leads are of sufficient gauge and made from high quality copper.
• 10 gauge minimum for amps.
• Even larger for those very big mono-block amps or very high powered amps (say, 1000 watts and up).
• 12-15 gauge minimum for source components .
• Ensure that all plugs are of a reasonable quality — again you don't have to go nuts.
• SONAR QUEST CRYO Ag Audio Grade Silver plated connectors are very good and reasonably priced.
• For added safety/security I crimp spade connectors to the conductors.
• This ensures maximum electrical contact and the wire should remain securely attached.

• All amps are designed to a "price point”.
• the manufacturer knows that if they include a good cord it will up their price compared to the competition.
• they also know that the informed consumer will buy a better cord anyway.
• NAIM did have a slightly better cord included, but it falls very short from the cables that really makes it "shine”.

“How can a 5ft quality built power cable make any difference?”

After all...

• There’s all sorts of noise on transmission lines.
• Add to that the noise in old transformers on hydro poles and all those poor connections.
• The crappy quality wire in the walls of your house/apartment doesn’t help.
• and don’t forget all those noisy household appliances.

• The reality is — the loosely coupled Valence Electrons in the cable, shift in one direction — but only for one half of the cycle
• As the voltage enters the other half of the cycle the Valence Electrons - shifts in the other direction
• So there is no “flow of electrons” as such — they just shuffle back and forth — however, there is a transfer of energy
• This means all that noise in the transmission lines and house wiring never ACTUALLY arrive at your components
• The noise that does get to your components is in the last 5ft of the supply line
• YES! - YOUR power cables!

• when you pass electricity through one wire i.e. the live wire...
• noise is induced into the other wire(s) i.e. the neutral and the ground
• The ground wire is not too much of an issue, since it goes directly to ground and is only really connected to the components chassis as a safety consideration
• BUT - if the noise gets into the Neutral wire — it can impact the actual operation of the components circuit
• if you can interrupt the induction process you can clean up the power in that last 5ft of power cable

• Well, as stated above — the wires have to be adjacent and parallel for induction to take effect.
• You could just separate them by about one inch, but that’s not really a convenient solution.
• But one very simple method is to braid the conductors — the tighter the braid the better they perform.
• In a braid, the wires cross each other at an angle between 30-50 degrees .
• This is enough to reduce the effect of the induction process.
• resulting in a significant reduction in noise.

• This is the most effective approach because the neutral and ground conductors are almost at 90 degrees to the live conductor
• There is virtually no noise induced into the neutral or ground conductors.
• The neutral and ground conductors also interrupt RFI/EMI pollution of the Live conductor.
• The resulting power is virtually clean.
• But, this “winding process” is much more complex to implement.
• And more than doubles the amount of wire required.
• Probably the main reason why it is seldom used.
• Typically, for a Ft 5 power cord I would use 12-14 Ft of wire for each of the neutral and ground conductors.
• There is one upside — the wire used for the Neutral and Ground wires does not have to be of the same high quality as the wire for the Live Conductor.

• using a stiffer wire allows it to “hold” the helix shape once it has been formed and it does not have to be of the same high quality copper as the Live Conductor.
• You can then insert a high quality, more flexible “live” conductor, like those available from Furutech or DH Labs, into the helix to complete the three conductors required for mains cables.
• The higher purity copper used in the live conductor will provide a much faster response to transient demands, i.e., better dynamic response.

• an easy approach is to wind the conductors around a wooden dowel.
• the resulting helix is like a spring and quite flexible.
• This also reduces the likelihood of the less flexible wires from cracking or breaking
• See DIY Power Cables - The “POWER HELIX"

• Ensure the cable is rated for mains use - I use cable capable of handling >=600v at 200 celsius .
• the gauge you select must be able to carry the power required by the component.
• DO NOT use Romex House Wire for prolonged use — it will crack and fail with use.
• Ensure you get the polarity correct when connecting the MAINS/IEC plugs.
• Reversing the polarity could result in degraded performance.
• It can also result in electrical shock.

• Most of my cables are between 4 and Ft 6 long.
• I have one helix cable that is only 3ft long and it works extremely well.
• But I would not personally make them any shorter than 3ft
• Longer than Ft 6 becomes a bit unmanageable to build

• YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR COMPETENCE IN CABLE ASSEMBLY PROCEDURES!
• YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR MATERIALS CHOICE!
• YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR INTERPRETATION OF INFORMATION ON THIS BLOG!

Tags: Power Cable, Discussion